-
How
much foam will I need to outfit my boat?
- What can I do if my legs go numb?
- If I custom fit my
cockpit, will I still be able to do a wet exit?
- Can I use any kind of foam?
- How will customizing my cockpit improve my skills?
- Is it worth the effort to customize my
kayak to myself?
- How can you
customize a boat to fit two or more individuals?
- Why would I want to
learn to roll?
- Where can I get tools and
materials?
- Why don't you sell kits?
- Wouldn’t
it be easier to purchase an aftermarket cushion for the seat and add-on hip
braces to custom fit my boat?
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That depends upon what you are doing, what boat you have, how big you are,
and how much material you lose in your experiments. To make a seat, hip
braces, and knee braces requires 3 1/2 to 5 1/2 square feet of 3"
foam. The seat requires a block of foam approximately 12" (fore and
aft) by 22" (beam), depending upon the width of the kayak. Some
paddlers make the fore and aft measurement of the seat longer, making it high in
front to extend the support beneath the thighs to relieve sitting pressure on
nerves and blood vessels, which is the cause of numbness. Hip braces
require about 1 1/2 square feet of foam, but vary a lot depending on the
boat. Wide boats may use significantly more, while shimming in the sides
of an existing seat just requires a few small scraps. Knee braces are the
most variable of all. Sometimes a couple of small chips glued where
they'll keep the knees from sliding into the cockpit opening are
sufficient. I used about one and a half square feet of foam for mine,
which completely surround the knee, and cantilever out into the cockpit. Take a look at our sample order.
It has a typical list of materials and prices.
Numbness is caused by pressure to blood vessels and nerves. You can do
several things:
Reduce pressure by creating a better fitting
contour so as to avoid areas of high pressure.
Increase the surface area of the seat by
extending it forward under the thighs.
Place a block (life vest, paddle float, whatever)
beneath the knees to give support to the legs.
Use a slightly compliant material for the seat.
By making your own seat out of 3" gray minicell foam you can usually
address the problem--unless your underwear is simply too tight!
A properly fitted kayak will not affect your ability to do a wet exit.
It is a little harder to wriggle into because the hip braces hook in over the
top of the hips. To enter you will need to drop one side of your butt and
swing the other side forward so your hips can angle past the tops of the hip
braces. With a little practice this becomes second nature, and it isn't
difficult. Exiting is easy since gravity is pulling you down and out
anyway. You just tilt the hips and shove, and you should come right
out. An improperly fit boat could be quite difficult to enter or
exit. You've got to sand away enough material so that entry
and exit are easy. Try some wet exits and rescues with a spotter to
help you if there are any nasty surprises. (Water testing any new
equipment by seeing if it interferes with rescues, braces or rolls is a good
idea. Have someone spot you if there is any possibility of danger.)
I like to do my fitting wearing skin tight shorts
like cycling shorts, or underwear, then open it up a bit more for my drysuit. It is much easier
to see what you're doing in shorts. Making things looser for the drysuit
is just a matter of uniform sanding all over. The final fit is not tight,
or even snug. It simply keeps you in place in the boat and gives you the
opportunity to lock in by bracing the legs against the kneebraces and footpegs.
Most kinds of foam have been tried, and they mostly work--sort of.
There are big differences in durability, compliance, carvability, glueing,
surface finish, etc. Gray minicell foam as
the preferred material. The gray minicell foam sold by kayak retailers comes from a variety of sources, and does vary in
quality. All gray minicell foam being sold for kayak fitting works OK, but
if you had an opportunity to compare by working with all of the different types you would
develop preferences. We prefer, use, and sell Sentinal SSP 20
polyolofin foam, which is cross linked, giving it a very uniform cellular
structure. Voltec M200 polyurethane foam is another preferred brand. Most
suppliers
won't be able to tell you what brand they sell because they usually don't
know. The price of foam varies substantially. You can purchase the
least costly, reasoning that it is the least costly, or you can buy one of the
preferred types, reasoning that you're going to be doing a lot of labor to
create a nice job of fitting, so you want a durable material that is easy to
work with, so you can get the best possible result for your labor, and have it
last the longest.
Fitting your kayak will make it easy to stay properly positioned in your boat
when it is on edge, or upside down, or even being tumbled in waves. You
will be able to communicate "body english" to your boat. Without
the advantage provided by fitting, your ability to edge the boat, do braces, or
rolls will be dependent upon the existing fit of the boat. If you base the
selection of your boat mostly upon fit you may get a good enough fit to do
fairly well, but if you try to purchase your kayak for its performance characteristics
as a boat, leaving the fit to chance, your technique will probably remain
minimal or clumsy until you fit the boat to yourself. The advantage to
fitting is that you can buy your kayak for its performance characteristics, and
then create a first class custom fit. Until you try it you
won't be able to believe what it will do for you. Now that I'm accustomed
to a good fit, I'd equate paddling an unfitted boat to driving a car sitting on a
bucket while wearing handcuffs.
If you are a very sedentary paddler, mainly parking your butt on the seat of
a broad, stable kayak, and paddling slowly along the shallow shore of a quiet
pond, it won't make much difference. If you like high performance
equipment, learning good technique and advanced skills, or paddle in unprotected
waters, this is the most significant improvement you will be able to make to
your equipment. It is soooo worth it!
It is difficult to do this well. Individuals sharing a kayak will have to settle for second best, which
would be some of the adjustable types of hip braces that use shims slipped into
pockets, or pneumatic bladders, or multiple sets of velcro-attaching pads*.
*When creating removable velcro-attaching pads, encase the entire pad with
fabric by means of spray adhesive. Otherwise the foam will tear when you
are removing the pad.
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There are four reasons for learning to roll:
To recover from accidental capsize in the
quickest, safest manner.
To improve bracing skills, which benefit markedly
from rolling practice, hence, making accidental capsize less likely.
(Though bracing is almost always taught before rolling, I'm not aware of anyone
who braces strongly who doesn't also roll.)
To improve peace of mind, enjoyment, and
composure in a kayak any time you paddle.
Rolling is a fun thing you can enjoy doing.
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You can get a Flex Curve at a drafting supply store, an office supply store,
or an art supply store. A piece of heavy solder makes a good makeshift
Flex Curve. The Stanley Shureform Shaver 21-115 is available commonly in
hardware stores. Kayak shops selling whitewater equipment are often a good
source of materials for cockpit customizing and Dragonskin metal
sandpaper. Stores selling speaker kits may have grill cloth suitable for
upholstering foam. Auto parts suppliers often sell spray adhesive (make
certain the type you get won't attack your foam!). Kayak shops usually
sell backbands.
OR
Buy most of these items, except the Shureform and Flex Curve, from us, at this
web site.
If we could, we would sell kits that would include all the
materials you would need, and would have all of the parts roughed out so you
would just have to finish them. Companies that sell cockpit-customizing
materials for whitewater kayaks, do exactly that. The problem is that sea kayaks
and the people who paddle them are too diverse. The amount of materials that
would work on one boat is often quite different from the amount of materials
required by another boat. The approach taken to the fit process also differs.
Many people do not make their own seat, and make minimal hip and knee braces.
They only require a small amount of material. The shapes of the fit components
differ so much that we can’t imagine how to do any shaping that would be
universally helpful. That leaves us at square one: Fitting individuals to their
kayaks, one boat at a time, for the best possible fit.
Yes, it would be easier. Some of the aftermarket products will
make a dramatic improvement for some boats and paddlers. The original seats in
some kayaks are pretty good for some individuals, but nothing is as good as
custom outfitting. For the best comfort and performance, complete custom
outfitting offers benefits to the paddler that cannot be equaled by other means.
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[ HOME ] [ INSTRUCTION ] [ PRODUCTS ] [ CHOOSING AN OPTIMAL PADDLE ] [ DRY SUIT GASKET REPAIR ] [ SAMPLE ORDER ] [ ROLLING AND BRACING ] [ SURVIVAL KIT ] [ FAQ ] [ PADDLE FLOAT RESCUE ] [ PHOTOS ] [ BOOK STORE ] [ KAYAK CAMPING AND CAMP STORE ] [ GPS ] [ LINKS ] [ CONTACT US ]
Copyright © 1999 [Kayakfit]. All rights reserved.
Revised: November 17, 2005
.